Among collectors of all stripes (certainly, this phenomenon is not limited only to the perfect replica watches UK enthusiast space), there’s a desire to seek out the very first iteration of any given design. The first iteration of a particular watch reference is arguably the most focused, and the truest to its original intent, so why bother looking at the later tweaks that come before an all-new generation is announced? Occasionally, though, these refurbished variants of classic models can be just as, if not more, compelling than their earlier counterparts. For an example, look no further than the quintessential vintage Navitimer — the classic Breitling Navitimer reference 806.
The top fake Breitling Navitimer watches from Bob’s Watches showcases its most distinctive feature – the slide rule bezel – which makes this model instantly recognizable among luxury timepieces. While this innovative feature has been part of the Navitimer’s DNA since its 1952 introduction, the early versions of this calculation tool can be particularly challenging for today’s collectors to master. However, the ref. 806 Navitimer unveiled in 1959 stood as the face of the series for over a decade, through what many enthusiasts consider to be the golden age of chronographs. The 1969 release of the Chronomatic automatic chronograph movement (developed jointly by Breitling, Heuer, Hamilton-Buren, and Dubois-Dépraz) saw the focus shift away from the manually wound ref. 806 towards the Chronomatic-equipped ref. 1806, but the ref. 806 would continue to be sold through the mid-‘70s in dwindling numbers. During this production run, the ref. 806 was far from a static product, with case changes, dial changes, and a handful of varying movements all falling under the ref. 806 Navitimer banner over its production run. The example shown here is a later-production version, manufactured circa 1970. While it maintains many of the earlier ref. 806 features, this particular version also sports many of the later alterations to the design that still influence the Navitimer line to this day.
To just how the later-production ref. 806 remains an exemplar for the 1:1 copy Breitling Navitimer watches to this day, it only makes sense to begin with the stainless steel case. At 41mm wide, it’s not as overwhelmingly large as some of the more modern Navitimer iterations, but it remains substantial and athletic on the wrist. The overall shape is a classic midcentury chronograph design, with long, tapering lugs, flaring chamfers, and piston-style pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock. As with any Navitimer, though, the real spirit of this design lies in the bezel. Rather than the more unusual polished, beaded bezel edge seen in early ref. 806 iterations, this 1970 model uses the updated, gear-toothed bezel edge. Not only is this far easier to grip and operate on a daily basis, but this subtle evolution remains the default rotating bezel design for the Navitimer to this day (although some smaller women’s models occasionally do opt for the more ornamental beaded look).
The dial of this particular buy clone Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 watches is where we can most clearly see the staying power of the changes made in the line’s quiet evolution. Although the Navitimer is the poster child for busy dial designs, this later iteration shows a dedication to streamlining this complex design where it makes sense, and most of these simplifications remain cornerstones of modern Navitimer design. The largest and most obvious component is the single Arabic hour marker at 12 o’clock, supplemented by simple printed line indices. When compared to the all-Arabic numeral dials of the early ref. 806 (or the left-field 24-hour dials of the early Cosmonaute versions), this circa 1970 model offers a more open, focused feel to contrast with the unchanged, gloriously byzantine slide rule scale. However, Breitling did not simply leave this newfound negative space unfilled. Starting in 1968, the brand transitioned the ref. 806 to the “Big Eyes” dial concept, increasing the diameter of each of the three subdials by a full millimeter. In the game of minute fractions that is watch design, a one-millimeter shift gives this later example a more function-forward, chronograph-heavy style that works well with the Navitimer’s ultra-complicated ethos. There’s also the brand logo itself to consider. Rather than the AOPA winged-shield emblem that adorned most Navitimer models until 1965, this version uses one of the later ref. 806’s only evolutionary changes not to continue into the modern day: the brand’s short-lived “twin jet” logo. Ironically, this evolutionary dead end is also one of the most sought-after features among vintage Breitling collectors, in many ways because of this lack of modern continuity.
Although this particular best replica Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 watches uses the hand-wound Venus 178 chronograph movement, these models were fitted with an array of movements throughout their production run. Early variants — and some later stragglers — were fitted with the venerable Valjoux 72, while some later ref. 806 models instead used the Valjoux 7736. Although both Valjoux options are legendary in their own right, with placements in some of the most desirable vintage chronographs ever made, the Venus 178 represents the lion’s share of ref. 806 production and offers solid vintage performance of its own.
One of the most clearly vintage components of this Naviitmer is its five-link bracelet. With its oversized, squarish mid-links and comparatively slender oval outer links, it’s a pattern with more than a whiff of ‘70s funk about it, but it’s a period-correct addition to this example. What’s more, this particular bracelet was made by JB Champion, one of the most famous bracelet-makers of the period. JB Champion bracelets are a fixture across many of the greatest midcentury Swiss watches, and this particular bracelet lends its lightweight, jangly charm to a design already bursting with vintage character. It’s not a bracelet design that Breitling would ever reintroduce into the AAA fake Breitling Navitimer watches family, but it’s undeniably fun.
Although the unaltered first iteration of any classic watch design is always going to capture a wealth of enthusiast attention, in many cases it’s the later expressions of these same generations – gently evolved and reworked – that end up making a more lasting impact on the series as a whole. This circa 1970 Breitling Navitimer ref. 806 is an honest, beautifully patinated case study of this principle in action and a reminder to studious collectors that sometimes the most interesting examples aren’t the first or the most expensive.